Overcoming a Fear of Heights

Climber (and good friend) being lowered at Great Falls, VA

The boy, already scared of heights, was even more scared of being lowered. He didn’t let on how terrified of being lowered until he was already at the top of the 30 foot top-rope climb. Lowering proved to be too daunting so my guiding partner, Jason Montecalvo, assured him everything was going to be alright and ran to the top so the boy could be anchored in and safely walk down.  Jason made the safest choice for everyone involved.

The boy decided he was done climbing for the day and sulked in the shadows of a nearby tree, hiding his anger at himself from the sun.  But, he couldn’t hide it from me.

I sat down on the low lying tree branch with him while we watched the other kids climb. At first, we did not talk. The silence faltered as we began to talk of things of utmost importance: of leaves falling to the ground, of lizards losing their tail in order to save themselves from being eaten, of candy wrappers struggling to stay in the lunchbox exposed to the afternoon breeze, of him being angry with himself and his form of releasing that anger by hitting his (helmeted) head with his hands, and of the spider webs on the nearby rocks.

Why was he angry? Because he perceived himself as a failure. I knew he wasn’t. He didn’t know that. But, I wanted him to know what I knew.

So we brainstormed together ways to overcome his terror. I too, am scared sometimes. Even “rockstar” climbers have hidden tales of exposure on the high cliffs. I uprooted my most embarrassing moments out of the shadows for him to see.  He didn’t like some of our initial ideas so we kept brainstorming until we found a solution that satisfied us both.

He would climb five to eight feet. I would counter-ascend climb to him. He would clip his harness to mine using my P.A.S (Personal Anchor System, aka, a sling or cordellette girth hitched to my harness). I wanted him to physically do the clip-in so he become involved and empowered in the process. Of course, I would check the clip-in for safety. We would then tandem-lower together, with him in front, feeling the rock with his feet and following the guidance of my coaching as we walked backwards towards the ground.   

That would be enough to satisfy me, knowing that he tried.

But it wasn’t enough for him. As soon as we both reached the ground, excitement quivered in his voice as he declare he can lower from that same point (eight feet up) all by himself.  And he did!

Again. And again. And again. Each time, he would go just a few inches higher. We were there for a while. Time didn’t mean anything to me anymore. After finally adding a full two feet to his climbing height, he asked “Do you think I should go higher?”

Sweat ran down my back as the sun wearily beat upon my belay stance.

“Yes! You should!”

I warned him that beyond 10 feet I would have difficulty hearing him, pointing to my pink hearing aids. How can we resolve this?  I already had solutions in mind, but I wanted him to be in control of his thoughts and decisions, thus further empowering him on the climb.

“No problem! We’ll use this hand sign when I want you to “take” [Take up slack]. And we’ll use this hand sign when I’m ready to be lowered!!”.

Once again, he climbed the familiar crack, reaching for familiar hand-holds. Soon, he was on unfamiliar rock. Hesitation wavered throughout his body. Inch by inch, he crawled up the rock face. My eyes were peeled for his hand signs, not daring to miss a sign and shake his confidence in any possible way. Soon his hands told me to “take” and “lower”, which I started to do. “ST-O-O-O-P!” I looked up to see him climbing higher!

And higher! And higher!! He reached the top!

His hands once again told me when he was ready to be lowered. With full confidence, he braced his body into a proper lowering position and without any hesitation, descended to the ground.  I burst with pride for him and exclaimed, “That was awesome!!!”

His response? “Yeah... the hardest part about this whole thing is that now I have to go home and take a bath!!”

Sorry kiddo… Life is tough. :-)

The Art of Scrambling

Love in the Rocks, Enchanted Rocks, TX

Children have been scrambling for thousands of years.

Until now.

In a short span of time, television, computers, and over-protection have squelched a natural instinct essential to our survival and physical movements. Kids used to go scramble up and down boulders and trees, developing muscles and agility that proves essential well into adult years. The boulders have been replaced with a couch and fear of lawsuit over a scraped knee.

While setting up rock climbs for a group of kids learning the sport of outdoor climbing, I created a mix of challenges, making sure we had the full spectrum of easy and difficult climbs.  The kids struggled. I climbed up to physically place their feet. I figured they have yet to develop the critical thinking skills required for structured climbing. No one was brave enough to touch the more "difficult" climbs. That's ok. I didn't push it. While challenges are good, I did not see the immediate need for them to descend after a very negative experience.  We broke for lunch.

Lunch evolved into fascination over watching kayakers and rafters test their skills in the gorge as well as keenly observing the tadpoles and larvae thriving in the pools of water on the rocks left from the recent rains.

These intent observations evolved into a long supervised scrambling session. I instructed them to keep their rock shoes and harnesses on (to keep them in the mental mode of climbing). We spent a long time scrambling over boulders, as well as being awed by the continual discoveries of wildlife and plants found in the cracks and pools. We even found a huge hole formation in the bedrock, which provided a fun way of sneaking in bouldering practice (climb in, climb out. The hole came up to my shoulders and I'm a tall gal!)

We probably spent at least an hour scrambling, exploring and laughing. I guess I could have herded them back to the ropes sooner, but I had an ulterior motive. Without even realizing it, they were developing confidence on the rock and reinforcing climbing techniques in a fun and non-intimidating environment. Furthermore, they were developing a love for nature, a personal passion of mine to see kids outside.

Arches National Park, Utah

It worked. I suggested that we get one more climb in before breaking down. I couldn't get them off the ropes!! Their climbing and attitudes noticeably increased tremendously compared to the morning. They were self- motivated to try everything, even the harder climbs. They were even telling each other where to put feet and hands. They had the opportunity to let their bodies rediscover what children have been doing for thousands of years. They found the ancient rhythm of childhood and it showed.

For rock climbing programs geared towards children, I encourage instructors to allow supervised and safe free play in between structured climbing sessions. The benefits are numerous. Not only will the children tap into their ancient rhythm, they re-learn the joys of exploring a video game free nature wonderland!

Enchanted Rocks, TX

Climbing with Children: Tips and Gear

PATC-MS climber John Podraza coaching his daughter at Carderock, MD

Often I am asked by parents how to encourage their little ones to climb and what kind of gear is needed.

Children are natural climbers. They begin their lives crawling and exploring. I’m sure many parents can relate to stories of babies trying to climb out of their cribs. Put a curious child outside and their natural instinct directs them to the nearest boulder or tree to climb. Sadly, these natural tendencies are squelched by television, video games, and other various forms of indoor entertainment.

Parents should encourage these natural tendencies to explore the outdoor world. Just let them roam and don't restrict them when exploring! Of course, spot the child to prevent serious injury but don't be overbearing. Over-protection reduces confidence in their own body. Let them naturally figure out how to use their body. A few scraped knees and elbows never hurt anyone in the long run.  Explore every tree and every boulder and every ladybug and beetle to be found on those trees and boulders while playing outside! Just have fun!! That's what it's all about and sadly, some parents forget that.

For a very young child “climbing” outside, you don't really need specific gear to scramble and explore. Children have been doing this for thousands of years.

When you decide to go the route of sport specific gear and structured climbing, be sure to check the rules and regulations of the local gym. Typically, outdoor climbing programs will not start accepting applicants until they are a older (around 14 yrs), but I have seen very little ones (as young as 3 or 4) scrambling up and down indoor walls. Obviously, the parents and gym staff belay and tie all of their knots. Gyms have varying regulations on who is allowed to belay for the children and how old a child must before he or she is allowed to belay.

Gear you will need for a young child in the gym

- full body harness, not the waist-only harness (older children can use waist-only harness)

How do you know when it’s time to graduate from the full body harness to the waist harness? Here is one dad’s perspective: “When she demanded that she didn't want to wear the baby harness any more :-(
I felt it was safe at the point were the hips where big enough to keep from sliding out if she went upside down.”  - Mike Dannhardt

- helmet. Although climbing helmets are sport specific, I have seen young children wear bicycle helmets for economically-minded parents. Be sure the helmet is big enough to cover the forehead and extends over the back of the neck. Avoid the “Mushroom-top” look, which exposes the face and neck to injury.

- shoes.  Young children probably do not need climbing specific shoes. However, if they become dedicated and want to climb pre-set routes, shoes are helpful. Fit them loose since young feet grow fast. They will eventually fit tight (like climbing shoes are supposed to fit) before they become too tight and it’s time to buy the next size up.

Gyms typically have children’s gear for rent or buy. Reputable brands include Black Diamond, Petzl, Mammut, Marmot, and Misty Mountain. Most importantly, check that the gear you buy is rated by the UIAA. http://www.theuiaa.org/safety_labels_products.php

I do not recommend buying used climbing gear unless you are 100% sure of its history and you know its safety rating has not be compromised (i.e. getting gear from a trusted friend). Shoes are exempt from this rule.

Two father’s perspective on coaching your young child:

“One thing that I found that helps motivate and encourage is to plan trips to climb with their friends. Sometimes they'll try to out do each other which is great. Other times they distract each other to the point where none of them are climbing very much (on rope) but they are still outdoors and scrambling around even if they don't realize it!”
-Mike Dannhardt, climber and father

“Hazel started climbing just before she turned 3, with a lot of
coaching.  Around age 4 she was starting to get it, and climb with
less coaching, so 3.5 to 4.5 is a reasonable age to start.  They
forget to place their feet so it helps if you coach them on that.
Any shoe with a thin sole is great, ie: water shoes, ballet shoes work
great.  Sneakers soles are often too wide and thick.
She uses the Petzl Simba Climbing Harness, which worked fine when she
started climbing.  I did tape the excess straps out of the way.”
- Mike Baur, climber and father

Enjoy the vertical journey with your child and have fun!